Retirement calculators

Retirement Savings Calculator

Where you stand

Three fields. Everything below is in today's dollars — no mental math converting future amounts back to what they'd actually buy.

$

401(k), IRA, and any brokerage money earmarked for retirement

$

Your contributions plus the employer match — check your last statement

How we calculate this

Two numbers, compared. What you'll have: today's savings grown forward, plus each year's contributions with their own growth. What you'll need: your annual retirement spending divided by a safe withdrawal rate — the same arithmetic behind the 4% rule, which at 4% means 25× your spending.

Everything is in today's dollars, and that's a deliberate choice. Growth uses a real return — 6.9% after inflation, the historical US equity average from NYU Stern — so no figure on this page needs translating back into what it would actually buy. A projection that tells a 38-year-old they'll have $6 million is technically defensible and practically useless.

The consequence people miss: using a real return requires treating your contribution as rising with inflation. If you contribute $19,500 today and hold that number fixed in nominal terms for thirty years while discounting with a real return, you've quietly modeled a contribution that shrinks by a third in purchasing power. We hold contributions constant in today's dollars instead — which means the assumption is that you increase them roughly with your pay. If your contribution is genuinely frozen in dollar terms, this projection is optimistic.

We never estimate your Social Security. The real figure depends on your full 35-year earnings history, and any number we invented would be wrong in a direction we couldn't predict. Get the personalized estimate from your SSA statement at ssa.gov/myaccount and enter it — we subtract it from your annual spending before applying the withdrawal rate. Leaving it at zero is the conservative choice and overstates your gap, often by a lot: $2,400/month of benefits removes $720,000 from a 4%-rule target.

What we don't model: taxes on withdrawals (that depends on your Roth/traditional/brokerage mix), sequence-of-returns risk (the withdrawal rate is itself the buffer for bad early years), a spouse's separate accounts and benefits, and any spending that changes through retirement rather than holding flat.

Real scenarios

Age 38, $145k saved, $19,500/yr: on track with room to spare

Twenty-nine years of 6.9% real growth turns the existing $145,000 into about $1,003,972, and the future contributions into another $1,674,158 — a projected $2,678,129 against a $1,700,000 target for $68,000 of annual spending. That's a surplus near $978,000, and it doesn't count a dollar of Social Security. The lesson isn't "you've won" — it's that a decent balance plus consistent contributions plus time does most of the work, and that this person could reasonably plan to retire earlier or spend more.

Age 45, $60k saved, $8,000/yr: an $852,319 shortfall, and what it means

Twenty-two years brings that to about $647,681 against a $1,500,000 target for $60,000 of spending — short by $852,319. Real, but not the disaster it looks like: this projection includes no Social Security at all, and a typical benefit would cut the target by hundreds of thousands. Add an SSA estimate before drawing conclusions, then look at the contribution, which is the lever with the most room left.

Why the Social Security field changes everything

At a 4% withdrawal rate, every $100/month of benefits removes $30,000 from your target. A $2,400/month benefit cuts a $1,700,000 target to $980,000 — a 42% reduction. Running this tool with the field at zero and treating the result as your real gap is the single most common way to scare yourself with your own spreadsheet.

What to do with this number

1
Get your real Social Security estimate first
Before reacting to a shortfall, spend five minutes at ssa.gov/myaccount. It is the single input most likely to move your target by six figures, and it is the one number we refuse to guess for you.
2
Check you're capturing the full employer match
An unmatched dollar is the highest guaranteed return available to you. Confirm your contribution rate clears whatever threshold your plan matches to before optimizing anything else.
3
Test the levers, in order of power
Retiring two years later usually beats saving slightly more, because it adds growth years and removes withdrawal years at once. Reducing planned spending is second. Chasing a higher return is last and riskiest — change the return field to see how little it takes to flatter the answer.
4
Re-run annually, not obsessively
Real returns vary enormously year to year; the projection uses a long-run average and shouldn't be revisited monthly. Once a year, with your updated balance and contribution, is the right cadence.

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